In the mood to learn something new for this week-end? Today, I’ll  tell you all about the ever so useful blind hem foot, one of my favorite sewing attachement.

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I use this little guy all the time! Whether I’m topstitching or actually doing a blind hem, the adjustable sewing guide is such a huge help to keep those stitching lines straight. It’s definitely worth having in your sewing room.

The blind hem is one of those techniques that scares a lot of us. Because you have to prepare and fold your hem specially before sewing, chances are you’ve never risked testing this foot, afraid to end up with a mess.

I was like that before, but now that I’ve discovered the secrets and invisibility of this particular hem, I want to use it everywhere!

Want to enter the fabulous world of the blind hem? Let’s learn it today! 🙂

The trick to create a nearly invisible blind hem is in the way you fold your fabric before sewing. It’s not complicated at all, it’s just a series of steps to do carefully in order to fold and press your fabric correctly. That way, the work will be easier for you and your machine when sewing.

Start by marking, on the wrong side of your fabric, the actual hem (the blue line in the picture below). Then make a mark half way between the raw edge and the first line (white line below).

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Next, fold your fabric’s edge by aligning it to the white line. Press, so it stays in place.

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Then, press the hem up like you would normally do. (Fold is on the blue line.)

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Now, the next fold is the one that will make the blind hem possible.

To do so, you’ll want to fold under the right side of the fabric toward the hem. This means that the wrong side of your fabric should now be on the opposite side of your hem.

When folding this under, take care to leave a small part of your original hem showing at the bottom, 3 mm to 6 mm / 1/8″ to 1/4″ should to be enough.

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Here’s a close up so you can see what all of this origami should look like from the side.

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And here’s what it should look like when unfolded.

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Now that your hem is neatly folded, let’s sew it in place. To do so, place the blind hem foot on your machine.

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To create a beautiful hem, set your machine to the blind hem stitch. On my Elna, it’s #5. It should look something like small triangular mountains. Note that the #4 can be used to achieve the same effect on stretch fabric.

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Now comes the essential part: testing the setting and foot width. To do so, you’ll want to adjust the small wheel on your foot, so that when the guide rest on the fold, the needle swings fully to the left.

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Place your fabric under the foot with the plastic guide aligned on the fold and check that everything looks good. If it does, start to sew.

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If your stitch setting is correct, the needle should hit the fold when it goes to the left to make the small triangle. Too much past the fold and you’ll end up with long threads showing on the right side, too little to the right and it won’t catch the fabric.

Here, the only solution is to test a few adjustments on a scrap of fabric until you find the sweet spot! Remember to write down the setting and hem size you’ve used, this will save you time for a future project.

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Admire the result, your hem is secured in place.

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Finally, let’s create some magic by unfolding the hem and give it a good press. You should see teeny tiny thread on the right side, that means you’ve done it right! Congrats!

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See how invisible it is? And it would be even more so if I’d use a similar colour thread!

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That’s it, you’re done! Admire your work and reward yourself with a treat, you deserve it! 🙂